How Light Rejuvenation Techniques Can Help You

“Light” rejuvenation techniques are actually refreshing to the skin. They remove fine wrinkles and improve skin texture and tone. These techniques usually consist of a combination of various creams and lotions, which can be used daily. The creams and lotions remove the dead cell layer of the skin [stratum corneum] and cleanse the pores. They may also stimulate epidermal resurfacing and induce collagen formation in the very superficial layers of the dermis. The advantages are that they can be used daily and there is no convalescent period. The disadvantages are that they only refresh the skin and remove the very fine wrinkles. They will not remove the deep wrinkles.

Types of “Light” Peels

Alpha-hydroxy Acid Peels [Glycolic Acid]

These are naturally occurring fruit acids that are exfoliants. They remove the top, dead-cell layer of the skin. They also allow moisturizers to better penetrate, hydrating the skin, and in this way, make wrinkles less prominent.

Glycolic acid is the most commonly used alpha-hydroxy acid peel. It is frequently a component in over-the-counter skin care preparations, but usually in low concentrations [less than 5%].

A 10% concentration of glycolic acid is commonly prescribed. It is buffered to change the pH balance so that it does not sting or irritate the skin. However, a very small percentage of people may not be able to use glycolic acid because their skin is too sensitive.

Normally, the glycolic acid lotion is applied to the face and neck in the morning. After approximately ten minutes, makeup may be applied over the area. Glycolic acid may be prescribed in combination with other ointments. Glycolic acid should not be applied to open cuts or irritated skin.

Renova® Retin-A®

Renova® Retin-A® are vitamin A derivatives that have been used for years to treat teenage acne. It is only FDA-approved for that use. However, over the years, many doctors have found it to be effective in removing superficial skin lesions, sun-damaged areas, and removal of fine wrinkles. Like glycolic acid, Renova® and Retin-A® remove the dead-cell layer of the skin; but in addition, they stimulate epidermal turnover, which speeds regeneration of the skin. Over time, Renova® and Retin-A® may stimulate collagen production in the upper layers of the dermis.

Retin-A® can be irritating to the skin when first used. This is a medical condition called retinoid dermatitis.” By starting out gradually and increasing concentration over time, this irritation can be greatly reduced, if not totally eliminated. The doctor will prescribe a concentration based on the individual’s skin type. Renova® has the advantage of causing less irritation. Ironically, the Renova® is actually stronger than most concentrations of Retin-A®.

A pea-sized amount of Retin-A® or Renova® is placed in each of the four facial quadrants and then worked into the skin. This is usually done at bedtime. Initially, we recommend applying every other night and then gradually increasing to a daily application. If irritation develops, the dosage would be cut back to every other day or would be diluted with moisturizer. Because these Retin-A® derivatives remove the dead-cell layers of the skin, which can act as a filter, skin may burn more easily. for this reason, you may need to use sunscreen. If one if going to be out under intense sun, temporarily stopping use of the Retin-A® or Renova® may be advisable. Retin-A® and Renova® may also cause skin to become drier; so moisturizers may need to be used as well.

Topical Vitamin C [Ascorbic Acid]

Vitamin C is especially formulated as a lotion or cream that is applied to the skin to reduce lines around the eyes, mouth and forehead. It also aids skin in appearing smoother, more radiant, and firmer. It helps protect against the harmful effects of UVA rays. Application for topical Vitamin C is new, but research in the use of Vitamin C has been ongoing and extensive.

Topical Vitamin C plays an important part in protecting your skin against ultraviolet light. When the skin is exposed to Vitamin C, up to two-thirds of the Vitamin C normally found in the skin is destroyed. Because Vitamin C is not synthesized in the body, it must be provided for by diet. The new topical Vitamin C provides more than twenty times the amount of Vitamin C found in normal skin. While Vitamin C is clearly not a sunscreen, it can help repair some of the damage caused previously by the sun as well as prevent further sun damage. In addition, it signals the body to begin synthesizing collagen. This results in a smoother, firmer finish to the skin.

Because of its potency, topical Vitamin C should be used only once a day, either in the morning or in the evening. It should be applied to clean, dry skin. After applying the Vitamin C, allow it to sit for approximately one minute before applying moisturizer or makeup.

Serial Chemical Peels 

These peels consist of 4-6 treatments of 10% trichloroacetic acid or 70% glycolic acid applied to the skin at two-week intervals. This can generally have the same effect as one year’s use of Retin-A® or Renova® in some individuals. Serial peels are used for individuals who want to “jump start” their skin rejuvenation program or on people who are unable to use Retin-A® or Renova® either because it is too irritating or they are unable to work it into their schedule.

The process is a simple one. Patients present to the Center and remove makeup. The peel solution is applied to the skin with a cotton-tipped applicator. Some patients experience a slight tingling, but most have no discomfort. Cool-water compresses are then placed over the face to deactivate the solution. After this, the patient can then apply makeup and are able to leave and return to normal activities. No recovery time is necessary, and the patient can immediately resume their normal daily activities. Over time, this can gradually develop some improved texture and a refreshed appearance. This peel can be used in combination with glycolic acid, Retin-A® or Renova® , and topical Vitamin C.

‘Medium’ Chemical Peels

A medium peel is used to treat mild acne, mild skin textural changes, mild color changes [age spots], and mild wrinkling. They usually require 7-10 days to recover [before one can wear makeup]. There’s no permanent pigmentation change in the skin, as can be seen with deep chemical peels. Medium chemical peels may need to be repeated every 3-4 years. They are frequently utilized in men. TCA 35% or Jessner’s +35% TCA peel is used in the medium peel process. These are done under twilight anesthesia on an outpatient basis. Vaseline is applied to the area following the peel, and the patient is able to return home that evening. for the next seven days, they keep the peeled area moist with Vaseline and frequent showers. There is virtually no discomfort associated with the healing process. Most individuals are able to apply makeup and return to their normal activities at seven days. The skin may have a reddened appearance, like mild sunburn, which subsides over the next several days. It can easily be covered with makeup.

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